Today we take a ferry to Pag, one of the biggest islands of the Adriatic. As soon as you arrive it’s like setting foot on the moon. Pag is like something you’d find in a 1950s Italian film, perfect for a broody black-and-white Antonioni set – it’s barren, rocky, and sepia coloured, with vast empty landscapes. Actually, half of the island looks like a desert which is due to the famous wind “bura” that blows from the continent towards the island. The Adriatic is a steely blue around it and, when the sky is stormy, the island is the most dramatic-looking place in the whole of Croatia. Its karstic rock forms a moonscape defined by two mountain ridges, patches of shrubs and a dozen or so villages and hamlets.
We definitely won’t miss biking on the cheese roads and trying the one and only Paski sir (Pag cheese) that is made from sheep milk. It is generally regarded as the most famous of all artisan cheeses made in the country.
Pag is connected to the mainland with a bridge in its southern part so we will use that to cross to the mainland and settle in one of the guesthouses in Zadar area.